Latest topics
» Gateway Timeout Errorsby von Corax Wed Dec 20, 2023 2:06 am
» We seem to be down again
by von Corax Sun Sep 24, 2023 3:42 pm
» Yet Another Upgrade: Saturday, 2 September 2023
by von Corax Sat Sep 02, 2023 9:58 pm
» Major Announcement: The Great Migration is Done!
by von Corax Sat Aug 19, 2023 9:13 pm
» If you're attempting to register at Brass Goggles…
by von Corax Fri May 26, 2023 5:30 am
» My Account on the Main Forum Has a Problem; Need Help
by Sorontar Fri Apr 28, 2023 5:57 pm
» Sceduled Server Maintenance
by von Corax Fri Feb 03, 2023 6:02 am
» Major Software Upgrade Wednesday June 8, 2022
by von Corax Thu Jun 09, 2022 6:23 pm
» Writing a Book...!
by Sarahsteam Fri Apr 01, 2022 10:26 am
» Subject: STEAMPUNK!
by Bartholomew Thatch Sat Feb 26, 2022 1:17 am
» Scheduled Maintenance Saturday Feb 19, 2022 @ 12:00 Noon EST
by Lazaras Sun Feb 20, 2022 12:49 am
» New Brass Goggles Administrator
by Xenos Thu Feb 10, 2022 7:21 am
» New member introduction thread.
by Avalon Skyboat Wed Feb 09, 2022 4:24 am
» Unexpected Change of Nationality?
by Xenos Tue Feb 08, 2022 6:34 pm
» How was your day thread (continued)
by Xenos Tue Feb 08, 2022 6:06 pm
» We Have Reached Peak Beard!
by Xenos Tue Feb 08, 2022 10:45 am
» Choose your Favorite Spare Goggles Emoticon!
by von Corax Tue Feb 08, 2022 2:02 am
» I hereby declare this a wizard-free zone
by The Corsair Mon Feb 07, 2022 3:29 am
Statistics
We have 731 registered usersThe newest registered user is vastfrontierz
Our users have posted a total of 8204 messages in 708 subjects
Pipe Lamps
+5
Siliconous Skumins
JingleJoe
Prof. George of Chaos
blackrider23
markf
9 posters
Page 1 of 1
Pipe Lamps
An interesting application of Home Depot odds & ends which would easily lend itself to steamy applications. markf
http://blog.makezine.com/archive/2008/09/pipe_lamp_exudes_hardware.html
http://www.flickr.com/photos/patrickcentral/sets/72157606532356109/
http://blog.makezine.com/archive/2008/09/pipe_lamp_exudes_hardware.html
http://www.flickr.com/photos/patrickcentral/sets/72157606532356109/
markf- officer
- Number of posts : 108
Age : 71
Location : Maryland, USA
Flag :
Registration date : 2008-09-13
Re: Pipe Lamps
Definately a cool and pretty simple method of creating a steamy device. Here is one I put together a while ago (always said I was going to add more to get a finished look but havent yet)
blackrider23- powder monkey
- Number of posts : 6
Registration date : 2008-09-14
Re: Pipe Lamps
Very nicely done BlackRider. I rather like the other example shown in the links, too.
I suppose we're all familiar with Fzz's effort from a few months ago?
I suppose we're all familiar with Fzz's effort from a few months ago?
Re: Pipe Lamps
I made a pipe lamp too slightly different to those copper ones though
(pics are a bit too big )
(pics are a bit too big )
Re: Pipe Lamps
I've just recently collected all the bits I need for my pipe lamp, now that I have a bit of free time comming up soon, I should be able to get this (and many other) projects finished off.
And thankyou JingleJoe - your pics have given me a solution to a problem I had with my lamp design....
SS
And thankyou JingleJoe - your pics have given me a solution to a problem I had with my lamp design....
SS
Siliconous Skumins- moderator
- Number of posts : 192
Registration date : 2008-09-12
Re: Pipe Lamps
You need not know anything!CaptZaphod wrote:Truly spiffy!
Wish I new electrical stuff, in order to build one...
In a few minutes of googling I can guarantee you'll know how to wire a plug.
Then it's as simple as getting a bulb holder and attaching the wires from your plug to the corresponding holes.
The earth should be marked and then the live and nuetral wires / blue and brown wires can go either way as long as you dont mix and match them, you know; live side flows to neutral, well kinda back and forth if you are using AC
The only other thing you need to make sure is that you insulate any exposed bits of wire with electrical tape especially if you are using metal pipe.
Re: Pipe Lamps
JingleJoe wrote:You need not know anything!CaptZaphod wrote:Truly spiffy!
Wish I new electrical stuff, in order to build one...
In a few minutes of googling I can guarantee you'll know how to wire a plug.
Then it's as simple as getting a bulb holder and attaching the wires from your plug to the corresponding holes.
The earth should be marked and then the live and nuetral wires / blue and brown wires can go either way as long as you dont mix and match them, you know; live side flows to neutral, well kinda back and forth if you are using AC
The only other thing you need to make sure is that you insulate any exposed bits of wire with electrical tape especially if you are using metal pipe.
Indeed he is most correct, building the electrical side of a pipe lamp is really quite simple. If you would like to build your own, why not build up the tube / pipe that you would like to use, then ask here for help with the wiring - I'm sure there are plenty here who would be willing to help you.
Actually, I'm building mine up shortly, I could take a few pictures during the build, and knock together a quick 'how to' on the subject of electrical wiring / lamp wiring / lamp building /etc.... if anyone would be interested that is.
SS
Last edited by Siliconous Skumins on Sun Sep 28, 2008 9:20 pm; edited 1 time in total (Reason for editing : speleng woz baad...)
Siliconous Skumins- moderator
- Number of posts : 192
Registration date : 2008-09-12
Re: Pipe Lamps
Agreed — if you respect electricity you need not fear it.
I should point out that JingleJoe's colour references are for the UK. I'm not sure where you are, Capt. Z., but for those of us in North America, the black wire is the "hot" wire and the white one is neutral. (Just remember "hot burns black." I don't remember where I heard that; I may have made it up myself, but I wouldn't put money on it.)
If you're building a lamp from plastic, wood or some other insulating material, you can use a two-wire cord/flex. It should have a ridge, stripe or some other marking along one wire (if it doesn't, get something else) to mark the neutral wire. The plug will have one blade wider than the other; the wide blade is neutral. This is important because you put the switch on the hot side of the circuit, before it reaches any other part of the lamp, and you connect the hot wire (from the switch) to the centre contact of the light sockets.
If your lamp body is metal, you should use a 3-wire flex. (I don't think it's required, but it is a really good idea.) It should have an outer sheath containing a black (hot), a white (neutral) and a green (ground) wire. Tie the ground wire to the metal body of the lamp; use the other two the same as above.
Of course, you follow my instructions entirely at your own risk; however, I believe my instructions to be correct, and that in following them your risk will be minimized.
I should point out that JingleJoe's colour references are for the UK. I'm not sure where you are, Capt. Z., but for those of us in North America, the black wire is the "hot" wire and the white one is neutral. (Just remember "hot burns black." I don't remember where I heard that; I may have made it up myself, but I wouldn't put money on it.)
If you're building a lamp from plastic, wood or some other insulating material, you can use a two-wire cord/flex. It should have a ridge, stripe or some other marking along one wire (if it doesn't, get something else) to mark the neutral wire. The plug will have one blade wider than the other; the wide blade is neutral. This is important because you put the switch on the hot side of the circuit, before it reaches any other part of the lamp, and you connect the hot wire (from the switch) to the centre contact of the light sockets.
If your lamp body is metal, you should use a 3-wire flex. (I don't think it's required, but it is a really good idea.) It should have an outer sheath containing a black (hot), a white (neutral) and a green (ground) wire. Tie the ground wire to the metal body of the lamp; use the other two the same as above.
Of course, you follow my instructions entirely at your own risk; however, I believe my instructions to be correct, and that in following them your risk will be minimized.
von Corax- Ætheric engineer (admin)
- Number of posts : 196
Location : The Darkest Depths of the Deforested City, Canada
Flag :
Registration date : 2008-09-15
Re: Pipe Lamps
Siliconous Skumins wrote:I could take a few pictures during the build, and knock together a quick 'how to' on the subject of electrical wiring / lamp wiring / lamp building /etc.... if anyone would be interested that is.
Oh, please do. I much prefer to learn things like this in a social setting rather than starting from a textbook, even if the textbook is where I go for detail.
Re: Pipe Lamps
I won't need to work with soldering or resistors? Okay...this would work then.Siliconous Skumins wrote:JingleJoe wrote:You need not know anything!CaptZaphod wrote:Truly spiffy!
Wish I new electrical stuff, in order to build one...
In a few minutes of googling I can guarantee you'll know how to wire a plug.
Then it's as simple as getting a bulb holder and attaching the wires from your plug to the corresponding holes.
The earth should be marked and then the live and nuetral wires / blue and brown wires can go either way as long as you dont mix and match them, you know; live side flows to neutral, well kinda back and forth if you are using AC
The only other thing you need to make sure is that you insulate any exposed bits of wire with electrical tape especially if you are using metal pipe.
Indeed he is most correct, building the electrical side of a pipe lamp is really quite simple. If you would like to build your own, why not build up the tube / pipe that you would like to use, then ask here for help with the wiring - I'm sure there are plenty here who would be willing to help you.
Actually, I'm building mine up shortly, I could take a few pictures during the build, and knock together a quick 'how to' on the subject of electrical wiring / lamp wiring / lamp building /etc.... if anyone would be interested that is.
SS
I've installed new light switches, light fixtures, and ceiling fans, but, that was done with out any kinda serious electrical work, just attaching new wiring connections.
Like my tag says, I reside on the East Coast of the USA.von Corax wrote:Agreed — if you respect electricity you need not fear it.
I should point out that JingleJoe's colour references are for the UK. I'm not sure where you are, Capt. Z., but for those of us in North America, the black wire is the "hot" wire and the white one is neutral. (Just remember "hot burns black." I don't remember where I heard that; I may have made it up myself, but I wouldn't put money on it.)
Thank you for the tips von Corax.von Corax wrote:If you're building a lamp from plastic, wood or some other insulating material, you can use a two-wire cord/flex. It should have a ridge, stripe or some other marking along one wire (if it doesn't, get something else) to mark the neutral wire. The plug will have one blade wider than the other; the wide blade is neutral. This is important because you put the switch on the hot side of the circuit, before it reaches any other part of the lamp, and you connect the hot wire (from the switch) to the centre contact of the light sockets.
If your lamp body is metal, you should use a 3-wire flex. (I don't think it's required, but it is a really good idea.) It should have an outer sheath containing a black (hot), a white (neutral) and a green (ground) wire. Tie the ground wire to the metal body of the lamp; use the other two the same as above.
Of course, you follow my instructions entirely at your own risk; however, I believe my instructions to be correct, and that in following them your risk will be minimized.
I may give this a go...even though I can't imagine where I'd put the finished piece...
But...I would like one either like J.J.'s
Or one like Fzz's:
J.J....where did you find those bulbs?
Re: Pipe Lamps
As far as wiring up a lamp, it's exactly that same type of job as you have allready done with switches etc. It's really simple and just needs a little common sense. I'll be building my lamp up sometime in the next two days, I'll post up pics and a little basic 'how to'. The only difference between my wiring and yours will be the colour (I'm in the UK so use the same wiring colours that JingleJoe mentioned), but the rest is exactly the same.
Oh, and the bulbs that JingleJoe used are known as 'pygmy bulbs' in the UK (usually 15W, but 7W and 25W also exist), however they may be known as something else in the USA (possibly "utility" or similar - they are often used in sewing machines, microwave ovens, fridges etc). If you can't find them, buy the UK pygmy bulbs, which are rated for 240V, and will only light at half brightness on 110V (so buy a 25W for around 10watts output). While not a bright light, the dimmer bulb may be more aesthetically pleasing however... (I believe JingleJoe uses a dimmer switch to control his brightness anyway)
SS
Oh, and the bulbs that JingleJoe used are known as 'pygmy bulbs' in the UK (usually 15W, but 7W and 25W also exist), however they may be known as something else in the USA (possibly "utility" or similar - they are often used in sewing machines, microwave ovens, fridges etc). If you can't find them, buy the UK pygmy bulbs, which are rated for 240V, and will only light at half brightness on 110V (so buy a 25W for around 10watts output). While not a bright light, the dimmer bulb may be more aesthetically pleasing however... (I believe JingleJoe uses a dimmer switch to control his brightness anyway)
SS
Siliconous Skumins- moderator
- Number of posts : 192
Registration date : 2008-09-12
Re: Pipe Lamps
1900.CaptZaphod wrote:
J.J....where did you find those bulbs?
Seriously, these things are ancient, I got them from my grandfather's aunt, shes about 100 years old
If you want you could buy one or two of the ones I have left. I think I may only have silver based ones left but I know I have atleast one brass screw-based one
But a thought, these bulbs are made for 240volts AC, if you are in a different country I don't know what the case is going to be with the electricity there, probably just make them dimmer if it's lower!
While I was typing SS gave me some more things to say
Speaking of how to's and bulbs, on BG we were planning to make an "Electronics How-To Thread" just before it disappeared againSiliconous Skumins wrote:As far as wiring up a lamp, it's exactly that same type of job as you have allready done with switches etc. It's really simple and just needs a little common sense. I'll be building my lamp up sometime in the next two days, I'll post up pics and a little basic 'how to'. The only difference between my wiring and yours will be the colour (I'm in the UK so use the same wiring colours that JingleJoe mentioned), but the rest is exactly the same.
Oh, and the bulbs that JingleJoe used are known as 'pygmy bulbs' in the UK (usually 15W, but 7W and 25W also exist), however they may be known as something else in the USA (possibly "utility" or similar - they are often used in sewing machines, microwave ovens, fridges etc). If you can't find them, buy the UK pygmy bulbs, which are rated for 240V, and will only light at half brightness on 110V (so buy a 25W for around 10watts output). While not a bright light, the dimmer bulb may be more aesthetically pleasing however... (I believe JingleJoe uses a dimmer switch to control his brightness anyway)
SS
In my bulbs thier fillaments and bases are slightly different to the modern counterparts and I use no dimmer switch but wire them in series so that they are dimmer than normal (about 7 watts each now I think!) In my lamp I just have a switch that turns the meter and the bulbs on or off, by the by the meter is separate from the bulbs; I branched the wires where they come into the lamp's body ... I wonder could I get a photo of that from the maintinance hatch?
Yet another edit:
Nope It's impossible to discern which wires go where without poking around alot and prior knowledge
Re: Pipe Lamps
JingleJoe wrote:1900.CaptZaphod wrote:
J.J....where did you find those bulbs?
Seriously, these things are ancient, I got them from my grandfather's aunt, shes about 100 years old
If you want you could buy one or two of the ones I have left. I think I may only have silver based ones left but I know I have atleast one brass screw-based one
But a thought, these bulbs are made for 240volts AC, if you are in a different country I don't know what the case is going to be with the electricity there, probably just make them dimmer if it's lower!
Hmmm, that just reminded me of a pair of bulbs I have in my collection (a small collection of odd / large bulbs, I even have a working lighthouse bulb - 1500 watts and HUGE!), these bulbs have brass caps and brass 2 pin fittings (and I have the matching two pin sockets) and I think they are around 40watt or so - though I cant be too sure as the markings are gone. Think they are from around the 1920's, though they look earlier, but are missinf the glass 'pip' on the top of the bulb... Would last longer if I ran them in series to reduce the voltage (and thus brightness), and they would look fantasic as a lamp....... *sigh*
I would love to use them for a lamp (SOOOOO steamy!!), but it would be a one shot deal - I'll not be able to get replacements when they blow. I still might do it, if only to get a couple of pics of the bulbs lit up, and never switch it on again.
Dammit, I'm so tempted build my lamp with them now....
SS
Siliconous Skumins- moderator
- Number of posts : 192
Registration date : 2008-09-12
Re: Pipe Lamps
Wiring colours are fairly easy...
In the US... Black - Hot/Live White - Neutral
In the UK Ancient... Red - Hot/Live Black - Neutral
In the UK Modern... Brown - Hot/Live Blue - Neutral
It isn't important for you to get these right as long as you are consistent. But if you can get them right it's better, as it makes it easier for the next person who works on it. I remember the old scheme for the UK more easily, red is hot. The new scheme is easy to work out from that as Blue isn't hot (think water taps).
Most American lamp wiring consists of a pair of wires one of which is ribbed. I never know which way round these are supposed to go...
Z.
In the US... Black - Hot/Live White - Neutral
In the UK Ancient... Red - Hot/Live Black - Neutral
In the UK Modern... Brown - Hot/Live Blue - Neutral
It isn't important for you to get these right as long as you are consistent. But if you can get them right it's better, as it makes it easier for the next person who works on it. I remember the old scheme for the UK more easily, red is hot. The new scheme is easy to work out from that as Blue isn't hot (think water taps).
Most American lamp wiring consists of a pair of wires one of which is ribbed. I never know which way round these are supposed to go...
Z.
Zwack- Comanding Officer
- Number of posts : 223
Location : And introducing my wife, the wonderful Mrs Z.
Flag :
Registration date : 2008-09-13
Re: Pipe Lamps
Zwack wrote:
Most American lamp wiring consists of a pair of wires one of which is ribbed. I never know which way round these are supposed to go...
See my earlier post – the wire with the rib(s) or stripe, and the wide blade on the plug, are the neutral side of the circuit.
I'd offer a catchy mnemonic in the same vein as "Hot burns black" but, sadly, I got nothin'...
von Corax- Ætheric engineer (admin)
- Number of posts : 196
Location : The Darkest Depths of the Deforested City, Canada
Flag :
Registration date : 2008-09-15
Re: Pipe Lamps
As I understand it there are several companies that specialize in refurbishing vacuum tubes for radio applications. Perhaps they might be able to restore a blown antique bulb or two.Siliconous Skumins wrote:I would love to use them for a lamp (SOOOOO steamy!!), but it would be a one shot deal - I'll not be able to get replacements when they blow. I still might do it, if only to get a couple of pics of the bulbs lit up, and never switch it on again.
Angus McCarthy- crewhand
- Number of posts : 13
Registration date : 2008-10-01
Page 1 of 1
Permissions in this forum:
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
|
|