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Glowing things! - progress update

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Herr Döktor
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Post  Alexander Edmund Clough Mon Oct 20, 2008 12:58 am

That's not the stuff that the beloved has donated, hers is in far smaller bottles than the smallest one that they do, but hers is also labled as "flower setting resin" so it's probably the same stuff rebranded. It's certainly setting clear except where there's the odd bit of glow powder caught in it, or in the bits where the powder has sunk to!

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Post  Alexander Edmund Clough Mon Oct 20, 2008 10:50 pm

I must declare myself profoundly perplexed!

I sawed the top part from one of the trays containing a luminiferous slab, only to find that the top clear layer as it was sawed of was flexible or almost rubbery in feel.

Sawing it produces soft fluffy white powder.

Also, the resulting green block is astoundingly flexible considering that I believed I was using an epoxy resin!.

Sanding the surface to remove remaining amounts of the clear resin (with sanding drum on dremel) produces vast amounts of white fluff.

Most bizarre!

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Post  Herr Döktor Mon Oct 20, 2008 10:54 pm

Sounds like it needs 'post curing'- a lot of the more exotic resins require a small amont of heat to aid their curing, not an oven or an autoclave, more the gentle but pervasive warmth of an airing cupboard, the Solid Water resin remains soft for days, but if the resin is warm before mixing, and is placed in a warm airing cupboard after pouring, it goes rock hard in 24 hours!
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Post  Alexander Edmund Clough Mon Oct 20, 2008 11:00 pm

'Tis very odd stuff this Her Doktor, very odd indeed.

This one does not mention heat other than it will make it cure faster.

I shall gently warm this slab and see what happens!

FOR SCIENCE!

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Post  Alexander Edmund Clough Mon Oct 20, 2008 11:05 pm

Well, heating it up has done bugger all to it. Other than to make it pong a little. Slightly rubbery whiff.

Ah, I was mistaken.

Heating it up did also make it slightly more flexible.

Now it's cold again it's back to the same "bendy yet stiff" that it was pre-heating.


Last edited by Alexander Edmund Clough on Mon Oct 20, 2008 11:09 pm; edited 1 time in total

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Post  Herr Döktor Mon Oct 20, 2008 11:07 pm

A few questions:

1. Is it odourless?

2. is it rubbery?

3. does it make fluff when sanded?

(Iknow you've already answered all these, it's for my own piece of mind!)

If the answer is 'YES' to the above a little heat is what's required!

Seriously, if you'd got the two parts up to body temperature or a bit more- not too hot or it'll go off before the bubbles have degassed- then keep the whole thing warm for a day or so, it'd behave more like acrylic plastic, stick what youve got somewhere warm 'til tomorrow night*, and I guarentee that it'll be more managable!


*maybe the night after, as it wasn't warm when you mixed it!

PS: Too hot is very BAD! Carcinogenic fumes, browning at the edges, FIZZING! A gentle heat for a longer time is best! I don't want your ill health on my conscience! Evil or Very Mad Very Happy
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Post  Alexander Edmund Clough Mon Oct 20, 2008 11:22 pm

Right you are old chap. I shall pop them in the airing cupboard for a couple of days!

Thanks muchly for the tip!

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Post  Herr Döktor Mon Oct 20, 2008 11:30 pm

It's one of those bizzarre things, the manufacturers of such things never, ever seem to want their customers to know how to use them- it's only through trial and error that I've got to know what little I do know!
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Post  Alexander Edmund Clough Tue Oct 21, 2008 1:02 am

I didn't have any objections to them being bendy... It's just seriously NOT what I was expecting!

Oh, for anyone wishing to replicate. Mix the glow powder equally between the resin and the hardener BEFORE mixing them together. Add enough powder that the resin and hardener start to feel "gritty" yet without lumps.

I've ended up with solid blocks of glowing stuff, and by heck they're bright.

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Post  Jemima Annabelle Clough Tue Oct 21, 2008 1:24 am

This might explain why when, one hot summer's day, I did a diorama of a pond and the stuff set solid, but when I did something else(*) on a colder day it never set properly.

(*can't remember what it was now, it got binned.)

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Post  Herr Döktor Tue Oct 21, 2008 2:02 am

Polyester resins are AWFUL- that's why they've mostly been superseded by the urethane (generally called 'fast cast') resins- as long as you get around a 50-50 mix, they cure just fine; unless they're CLEAR- in which case you have to use a clean mixing pot every time, make sure that the mix ratio is EXACT, preheat the mould and the resin before you mix it, postcure the resin, make sure you're facing south, sacrifice a mouse to Ptat, the Ancient Egyptian God of modelmakers*, etc., well, maybe not the last bit, but it can be a bit hit and miss!

*this bit's true, the Ancient Egyptians did have a God of Modelmakers- for the chaps that made all the miniature grave goods for the middle class Egyptians that wanted to wake up in the afterlife with all their possessions, only all to an exact 1/24th scale. Wink
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Post  Dr Quack Tue Oct 21, 2008 2:52 am

Mr C,
Your fortune is made.

The market for glow in the dark flexible pink cylinders is already well established.

Full scale production should be commenced immediately and a system of sales parties set up forthwith.

I'd happily forego my individually crafted, zero light, object finding device for share options in this new endeavour.

I'm picking up good vibrations,

Dr. Q.

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Post  Alexander Edmund Clough Tue Oct 21, 2008 3:29 am

Dr Q.

Bad news I'm afraid.

The pink ones were far too rigid and brittle and have been scrapped on Health & Safety grounds.

Am working on green ones now, and awaiting 48 hours post-curing time in the airing cupboard to see if they remain rubbery or not!

AEC.

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Post  Justin Time Thu Oct 23, 2008 1:28 am

Don't know if this has been brought up, but...

The way I do GITD castings is to mix the powder in the "B" or base side of the resin, then mix in the "A" side/catalyst and pour. I've colored non-clear urethane resin before with green GITD powder as well.

JIT

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Post  Alexander Edmund Clough Thu Oct 23, 2008 2:10 am

Well, I bow before Herr Doktor's supreme knowledge

Two days on top of the hot water tank in the boiler cupboard and they are as I would expect cured epoxy resin to be. HARD AND PLASTICY!

Huzzah!

P.S. to Justin - I've found mixing them equally between resin and hardener works well. If I try with the FastGlas resin again, I shall give your method a try though, and definately use more powder!

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Post  Herr Döktor Thu Oct 23, 2008 2:14 am

Glad to be of service, Sir!

And I agree with Mr. Time's methodology: I always mix colourant or filler with the runnier part of the resin, it saves time- which is especially usefull if the resin has a short pot life!
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Post  Alexander Edmund Clough Thu Oct 23, 2008 2:27 am

I only went for equal mixing on this one because both resin and hardener were of identical consistency.

Slightly oddly, the rod is still slightly flexible. I am assuming this is because the plastic tube being quite thick will have insulated the resin somewhat. Now it has been de-tubed I shall pop it back in the warm for a day or so to heat back up.

I've ended up with a solid glowy rod approximately 21.5cm long Smile and 4 slabs.

Update. The other three slabs that had sat in the warm still in their moulds have been demoulded and discovered to also still be slightly flexible also. They have joined the rod back on top of the hot water tank for another 24 hours or so.

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Post  Alexander Edmund Clough Fri Oct 24, 2008 3:33 am

The slabs that went back in the warm to finish curing are now nice and hard. But the rod has me puzzled....

When cool it's nice and rigid, if slightly flexible. That I'd expect.

Hold it in a clenched fist for a minute, and it becomes very flexible and almost rubbery!

HOW strange!

Still, I believe that I can use it for Dr Quack's glowing device, with a few careful design choices....

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Post  JingleJoe Fri Oct 24, 2008 3:39 am

Herr Döktor wrote:
PS: Too hot is very BAD! Carcinogenic fumes, browning at the edges, FIZZING! A gentle heat for a longer time is best! I don't want your ill health on my conscience! Evil or Very Mad Very Happy
Hold on a second, are you tellg me, Herr Döktor, that when epoxy resin is burnt or heated alot it gives off cancer causing fumes?

P.S. The glowing blocks of stuff are cool Smile
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Post  Herr Döktor Fri Oct 24, 2008 8:28 pm

JingleJoe wrote:
Herr Döktor wrote:
PS: Too hot is very BAD! Carcinogenic fumes, browning at the edges, FIZZING! A gentle heat for a longer time is best! I don't want your ill health on my conscience! Evil or Very Mad Very Happy
Hold on a second, are you tellg me, Herr Döktor, that when epoxy resin is burnt or heated alot it gives off cancer causing fumes?
Oh yes. Twisted Evil

P.S. The glowing blocks of stuff are cool Smile
Oh, yes, meant to say that I find you glowiness rather good too! Very Happy
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Post  Justin Time Fri Oct 24, 2008 8:45 pm

I've found that in cool temperatures or high humidity clear resin can stay flexible for days, but eventually harden.

Is it possible you are using too much GITD powder? What is your mix ratio or percentage of powder to resin?

If the resin is thicker and can be brushed into the mold, you could try to make a thin GITD skin, then fill the rest with regular resin. That also depends on what kind of mold you have, one part, two part, etc.

The resin I use (non clear) is a nearly water-like consistency and cures to a yellow-ish color, but would still glow green when powder is added, just not as uniformly as clear resin.

Have you considered just painting the castings with GITD spray paint, or will that spoil the effect you're going for?

JIT

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Post  JingleJoe Fri Oct 24, 2008 11:12 pm

Herr Döktor wrote:
JingleJoe wrote:
Herr Döktor wrote:
PS: Too hot is very BAD! Carcinogenic fumes, browning at the edges, FIZZING! A gentle heat for a longer time is best! I don't want your ill health on my conscience! Evil or Very Mad Very Happy
Hold on a second, are you tellg me, Herr Döktor, that when epoxy resin is burnt or heated alot it gives off cancer causing fumes?
Oh yes. Twisted Evil

sh*t I've breathed those fumes in on a few occasions Neutral
Will a gas mask protect?

Note to self: Dont burn epoxy ... anymore.
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Post  Herr Döktor Fri Oct 24, 2008 11:50 pm

Well there's no real advice about what a 'safe' level of exposure is, but 'a few times' is probably on the 'safe' end of exposure!

Personally, when I'm using polyester (Fastglass/glass fibre) resin or polyurethane (fast cast) resin I always wear a 3M respirator with particulate and gas filters, but I do use resins almost every day!

Wink
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Post  JingleJoe Sat Oct 25, 2008 12:40 am

Oh good Smile well I have some old-ish beat up sweedish gas mask I wear for doing stuff that gives off nasty things or dust, but I dont know how good it is. I also have a few from WW2 but one might have asbestos in the filter so I don't wear that one.

(except in my avatar)
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Post  Alexander Edmund Clough Mon Oct 27, 2008 1:34 am

I say chaps (and especially Herr Doktor - knower of all things epoxy!), if I was to wish to make a casting of an object (in this case the handles scales for a swiss army knife) and then fill it with glow in the dark epoxy resin...

What casting material would be best?
What mould release agent should I use?
How would I best get a FULL cast of both sides of the handle scales? (so I could also get the moulding inside the scales in order to keep the tweezers and toothpick slots and so they could press fit onto the rivets like the original scales do).
How would I make sure I didn't get big air bubbles in the epoxy when I pour it?

Many thanks!

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