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Proper corset construction

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Proper corset construction

Post  pennydreadful on Sat Oct 11, 2008 9:38 pm

I have some experience building corsets. I did theatrical costuming and historical reenactment in the past. Building older style corsets is not a big deal. But I am running into a problem plotting out a full length Victorian one.

I have a basic torso corset I made a few years ago. It fits great except the front boning is a bit too long so when you sit down it causes the front of the corset to dig into your hips and legs and ride up in the front.

I am wanting to construct a full length (down over the hips) style corset but I am not sure of the proper way to cut or measure the front boning so it does not cause the front to ride up or dig when your sitting.
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Re: Proper corset construction

Post  Elisha Rush on Mon Oct 13, 2008 3:35 am

Are you making a lady's or getleman's corset?

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Re: Proper corset construction

Post  Mlle. A. aurantia on Mon Oct 13, 2008 1:39 pm

I am still arguing with an 1850s corset design. This is my fourth attempt. It seemed the simplest for a first time seamstress, but the size adjustments are just nightmarish. What pattern are you using? Is it one of the Walmart designs or another company? If it turns out well, would you let me know? I would love to build an 1870s style, with the bust gores and the spoon busk.

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Re: Proper corset construction

Post  pennydreadful on Mon Oct 13, 2008 8:32 pm

I draft from scratch. If I was going to use a pattern though I would use one of the ones from this place. http://www.corsetmaking.com/CMSpages/CMSpatterns.html
Laughing moon, ageless or past patterns.

What is absolutely driving me crazy is not being able to get the front measured right to prevent ride up. I must have odd torso measurements and can't quite figure out where and how much to modify. Making Renn or other earlier period style corsets are not a problem since their ride up higher and have a different shape to them.
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Re: Proper corset construction

Post  B. R. Wilson on Mon Oct 13, 2008 8:57 pm

You could try this site. I realize it's Elizabethan, but I'm sure you could adapt it into Victorian. Also, it's a custom pattern! (Protip: when inputting the length, make it a bit longer than you think you need. I didn't, and ended up with a waist cincher instead of an overbust!)
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Re: Proper corset construction

Post  HettyBattersea on Tue Oct 14, 2008 2:59 am

Please realize that my sewing skills are not extensive and this may be a silly question.

Have you tried measuring the front of your torso while sitting instead of standing?

I've used the link for the custom corset and didn't have much luck. The Laughing Moon pattern is calling my name.

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Re: Proper corset construction

Post  pennydreadful on Tue Oct 14, 2008 3:16 am

The frustration is that I did. The corset causing the problem is an underbust version and that may be contributing to the problems. I cut it with a curve in the front as you normally see in drawings. Since I am ordering spiral boning for this one I want to make sure I have the measurements correct.
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Re: Proper corset construction

Post  Lady Penelope on Tue Oct 14, 2008 6:22 am

I'm afraid I have no helpful advice to give, myself, but I shall be avidly watching this thread, as I happen to be in need of an underbust corset as well, and might be requiring the same pointers soon.
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